Polka-Dot Skin

by Mimi Barre

Polka-Dots are cute on clothes and maybe even on wall paper, but not on your face. If you have discoloration, dark spots, or hyperpigmentation, don’t despair. Help is here.

There are several causes for dark spots on the face. Hormones, pregnancy, and hormonal birth control (pills, implants, or shots) can cause malasma or the “Butterfly” mask of pregnancy. To avoid or lighten malasma, wear a sun block every day, even if you don’t plan to go in the sun, and even if you have a dark complexion. Discuss with your doctor about changing to a birth control method that is lower in estrogen. After you have finished nursing, use a glycolic acid product containing a pigment lightening ingredient.

Another cause of dark spots is trauma to the skin. This can be from a bug bite, a pimple, or damage from squeezing black heads. To prevent these spots, use a bug repellent when you are in an infested area. Never pick at sores or pimples. Learn proper skin care, diet, and life style management to clear up acne. If you are a woman of color, check to be sure that your esthetician (skin care specialist) has received special training in treating ethnic skin. Always wear a sunblock, and use a pigment lightening product.

To achieve the maximum benefit from pigment lightening products, read the label and look for these ingredients. First, to make the skin accept the active ingredients, there must be glycolic acid. The acid by itself will help clarify the skin, but joined with other potent ingredients, you will experience dramatic results. The product must have hydroquinone OR a combination of kojic, licorice, and mulberry. Use the product at night only, because in the presence of light, it could actually amplify the effects of the sun.

In the daytime, use another glycolic product to address other specific skin conditions like acne, oily, weathered, dry, or wrinkled skin. Plus, always wear an SPF 15 sunblock.

To booster the progress, you can use an enzyme facial scrub twice a week, if no active acne pimples are present. Also, have your facialist give you high power Alpha Hydroxy Acid treatments (sometimes called AHA “peels” or rapid exfoliation) in the facial salon.

Old, stubborn, hard lumpy discoloration spots can be treated by a dermatologist with injections of cortisone. If your skin is richly pigmented (olive to darker color) do NOT have dermabrasion or strong chemical peels. These could actually cause severe scaring.

Be patient. With glycolic acid products used morning and night, you will see improvement in your general skin condition within 4 weeks. However, the lightening process may take up to 3 months. All new skin must grow without the damage. If you do not see improvement in 5 months, take the product back to the store, get a refund, and try a different formula. Always purchase your skin care products at an establishment that has a full money back guarantee policy.