Dry Acne

Redlands Daily Facts Health Section, Dry Acne
Staff Writer
Posted: 03/10/2009 09:29:39 PM PDT

Q:: I have terrible blackheads and pimples, but my skin is very dry on my face. All the acne products seem to dry my skin even worse so it gets flaky. What can I do?

Mimi: There are three major components that cause acne: P. Acnes bacterium, excess dead skin, and over production of oil. Each will be dealt with more in depth in future columns. Most acne treatments work by trying to dry up the excess oil.

The purpose of the oil is to lubricate the hair growing from the hair follicle (pore) and to lubricate the skin. If the oil is tacky instead of fluid, it gets clogged up in the pore and doesn't flow out. Then the hair and skin appear to be dry. The clogged oil mixes with excessive dead skin flakes and makes a paste that sticks in the pore. When air hits the paste of dead skin and sticky oil, the paste oxidizes and turns brown and then black. When it oxidizes it also becomes thick and hard. This is a black head. The black head acts as a plug so oil can't flow. Then the skin becomes dry. A diet of fresh fruit and veggies plus lots of water may help to keep the oil from being sticky.

Eliminating the excess flakes of dry skin may prevent the oil from mixing with dead skin to become a plug. There are three ways to remove dead skin flakes. One is with an enzyme that will "eat" the dead skin. Most have Papain from papaya or Bromaline from pineapple.

Acids help dissolve the lipid "glue" that holds the dead skin together. A daily application of Alpha Hydroxy Acid or a Vitamin A derivative (Retin A or Retinol) will help remove the dead skin.

A scrub will exfoliate the dead skin. An easy scrub is a little bit of liquid facial cleanser (baby shampoo works) mixed with enough regular table sugar to make a paste. Wash your face first, and then scrub gently with the sugar scrub. Rinse well. You will notice smoother skin immediately. This can be used two or three times a week. If your skin becomes irritated, stop.

Because the black heads are clogging the pores, the oil can't flow. If the blackheads remain, they may get bigger and cause the pores to stretch. Also, the oil in the pore may burst through the wall of the pore into the surrounding tissue and ultimately cause pimples. So the blackheads need to be removed.

The following method can be used for extracting pimples also:
FIRST wash your hands with hot water and lots of soap.
Next, wash your face well. Use water as warm as is comfortable. You may use a scrub if you like.
Next, and this will seem crazy; massage your face well with oil. You can use olive oil, cooking oil, mineral oil, almond oil, even baby oil. Massage extra well in the black head areas.
Wipe your face well with a really warm washcloth.
Hold a really warm, damp washcloth over the area that you will work on.
Look in a magnifying mirror if you have one.
Use Q-tips to squeeze the blackhead or pimple.
NEVER USE YOUR FINGERS.
If the blackhead or pimple does not come out easily, LEAVE IT ALONE.
NEVER USE A NEEDLE!!!
Blackhead (comedone) extractor tools are available from your Esthetician.
After your "bathroom surgery" wash your face again with a cool, clean washcloth and cleanser.
Apply Hydrogen Peroxide. DO NOT PICK.

With twice weekly extraction sessions, blackheads will diminish. With the dead skin and the blackhead plugs under control, the natural oil should start flowing again to keep your skin from being so dry.

Mimi Barre is the owner of International Day Spa, 325 Cajon St., Redlands. Send your skin care questions to her at MimiB@INTLdayspa.com. She and her estheticians are available for personal consultations, (909) 793-9080.