Polka-dots that aren't so cute

Redlands Daily Facts Health Section March 10, 2009 Polka-dots that aren't so cute
Staff Writer
Posted: 03/10/2009 09:29:39 PM PDT

Q: I have discoloration and dark spots on my face. What can I do about them? - JB in Redlands

Mimi: Polka-dots are cute on clothes and maybe even on wallpaper, but not on your face. If you have discoloration, dark spots or hyperpigmentation, don't despair. Help is here.

There are several causes for dark spots on the face. Hormones, pregnancy and hormonal birth control (pills, implants or shots) can cause malasma or the "butterfly" mask of pregnancy.

To avoid or lighten malasma, wear a sunblock every day, even if you don't plan to go out in the sun and even if you have a dark complexion.

Discuss with your doctor about changing to a birth control method that is lower in estrogen. After you have finished nursing, use a glycolic acid product containing a pigment-lightening ingredient.

Another cause of dark spots is trauma to the skin. This can be from a bug bite, a pimple or damage from squeezing blackheads. To prevent these spots, use a bug repellent when you are in an infested area. Never pick at sores or pimples. Learn proper skin care, diet and lifestyle management to clear up acne.

If you are a woman of color, check to be sure that your esthetician (skin care specialist) has received special training in treating darker skin. Always wear a sunblock, and use a pigment lightening product.

To achieve the maximum benefit from pigment-lightening products, read the label and look for these ingredients. First, to make the skin accept the active ingredients, there must be glycolic acid. The acid by itself will help clarify the skin, but joined with other potent ingredients, you will experience dramatic results.

The product must have hydroquinone or a combination of kojic, licorice and mulberry. Use the product at night only, because in the presence of light, it could actually amplify the effects of the sun.

In the daytime, use another glycolic product to address other specific skin conditions such as acne, oily, weathered, dry or wrinkled skin. Plus, always wear an SPF 15 sun block.

To boost the progress, you can use an enzyme facial scrub twice a week, if no active acne pimples are present. Vitamin C home care products can help. Also, have your facialist give you high-power vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acid treatments (sometimes called AHA "peels" or rapid exfoliation) in the facial salon.

Old, stubborn, hard lumpy discoloration spots can be treated by a dermatologist with injections of cortisone. If your skin is richly pigmented (olive to darker color) do not have dermabrasion or strong chemical peels. These could cause severe scarring.

Be patient. With glycolic acid products used morning and night, you will see improvement in your general skin condition within four weeks. However, the lightening process may take up to three months. All new skin must grow without the damage.

If you do not see improvement in five months, take the product back to the store, get a refund and try a different formula. Always purchase your skin-care products at an establishment that has a full money-back-guarantee policy.

Mimi Barre is the owner of International Day Spa, 325 Cajon St., Redlands. Send your skin care questions to her at MimiB@INTLdayspa.com. She and her estheticians are available for personal consultations, (909) 793-9080.